EVERYDAY LIFE IN BALI

BALINESE COOKING

The sate can be made of pork or chicken, but turtle remains the favourite of the Balinese of Den Pasar. Turtles are expensive (about twenty dollars for a good-sized one) , and ordinarily pork chicken, or duck is the dish served at more modest feasts. They may be prepared in the form described above, in sates, lawar, getjok, or simply split and roasted with a peppery sauce. Duck is stuffed and steamed (bebek betutu) . Although the expression: " He has to eat banana leaves " is used to give emphasis someone's extreme poverty, a delicious dish and a great delicacy is the kekalan, made of tender shoots of banana leaves cook( in turtle blood and lime juice. Balinese cooking attains its apotheosis in the preparation of the famous be guling, stuffed suckling pig roasted on a spit, the recipe for which was also give to Rose by the Belaluan cooks:

After the pig has been killed, pour boiling water over it and scrape the skin thoroughly with a sharp piece of coconut she Open the mouth and scrape the tongue also. Cut a four-inch incision to insert the hand and remove the viscera. Wash the inside of the pig carefully with cold water. Run a pointed stick through the mouth and tail and stuff the pig with a mixture of:

red chili-pepper (lombok) bogaron tinke (nuts resembling ginger)
garlic tjekoh (an aromatic root of the ginger family)
red onions black pepper (meritja)
tumeric (kunyit) sra (concentrated fish paste)
ginger (djahe) aromatic leaves (saladam or Ulam)
salt and ketumbah, a variety of peppercorn.

Chop all these ingredients fine, mixing them with coconut oil. Stuff the pig with the mixture, placing inside a piece of coconut bark, and then sew up the cut. To give the skin the proper rich brown colour, bathe the pig, before roasting, in tumeric crushed in water, and rinse off the excess root.

Make a big wood fire and place the pig not directly over it, but towards one side. Forked branches should support the end of the stick that serves as a spit, one end of which is crooked to be used as a crank by a man who turns the pig constantly (guling means to turn) , while another man fans the fire to direct the flame and smoke away from the pig. The heat should be concentrated on the head and tail and not in the middle so as not to crack the skin of the stomach.

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