ART
AND THE ARTIST
THE PLACE OF THE ARTIST IN BALINESE LIFE
Everybody in Bali seems to be an artist. Coolies and princes, priests
and peasants, men and women alike, can dance, play musical instruments,
paint, or carve in wood and stone. It was often surprising to discover
that an otherwise poor and dilapitated village harboured an elaborate
temple, a great orchestra, or a group of actors of repute.
One of the most famous orchestras in Bali is to be found in the remote
mountain village of Selat, and the finest dancers of legong were in
Saba, an unimportant little village hidden among the ricefields. Villages
such as Was, Batuan, Gelgel, are made up of families of painters, sculptors,
and actors, and Sanur produces. besides priests and witch-doctors, fine
story-tellers and dancers.
In Sebatu, another isolated mountain village, even the children can
carve little statues from odd bits of wood, some to be used as bottle-stoppers,
perches for birds, handles, but most often. simply absurd little human
figures in comic attitudes, strange animals, birds of their own invention,
frogs, snakes, larvae of insects, figures without reason or purpose,
simply as an outlet for their creative urge. In contrast to the devil-may-care
primitive works of Sebatu are the super-refined, masterful carvings
from Badung, Ubud, Pliatan, and especially those by the family of
young Brahmanas from Mas who turn out intricate statues of hard wood
or with equal ability paint a picture, design a temple gate, or act
and dance.
Painting, sculpture,
and playing on musical instruments are arts by tradition reserved to
the men, but almost any woman can weave beautiful stuffs and it is curious
that the most intriguing textiles, those in which the dyeing and weaving
process is so complicated that years of labour are required to complete
a scarf, are made by the women of Tenganan, an ancient village of six
hundred souls who are so conservative that they will not maintain connections
with the rest of Bali and who punish with exile whoever dares to marry
outside the village.
The main artistic
activity of the women goes into the making of beautiful offerings for
the gods. These are intricate structures of cut-out palm-leaf, or great
pyramids of fruit, flowers, cakes, and even roast chickens, arranged
with splendid taste, masterpieces of composition in which the relative
form of the elements employed, their texture and colour are taken into
consideration.
I have seen monuments,
seven feet in height, made entirely of roasted pig's meat on skewers,
decorated into shapes cut out of the waxy fat of the pig and surmounted
with banners and little umbrellas of the lacy stomach tissues, the whole
relieved by the vivid vermilion of chili-peppers. Although women of
all ages have always taken part in the ritual offering dances, in olden
times only little girls became dancers and actresses; but today beautiful
girls take part in theatrical performances, playing the parts of princesses
formerly performed exclusively by female impersonators.
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